On this page will discuss common types of illnesses your birds may encounter.
Table of contents
Introduction.
I will break this article into categories, it will probably be a rather long article, but necessary, so be warned 😃
If you find something that you know is wrong and would like to see it corrected then please send me a Private Message, I am only human, I make mistakes too.
I will in the near future create pages dedicated to each subject listed below in great detail.
I decided to write this particular article because I found that most sites have simply copied each other, The content is pretty much the same on almost every site I looked at. A breath of fresh air was required, so after a lot of thought I also decided I wanted to keep this page 'simple laymen' so it is easier to understand and follow for the average reader.
In all the years I have kept birds, I have heard many questions, but the question I heard asked the most was 'What is wrong with my bird?'. It is a question I still hear today, and since being an Admin in many Facebook bird groups, even more so. I want to list the most common illnesses that birds get, then list symptoms, actions to take and so forth. It would be advisable to refer to other pages already written on this site when using this page, such as Poopology, Environment, Toxins, Health Checks, Pests, Diet, Lighting...
Sadly for Mobile and Tablet users, it makes it difficult to present nicely organized table layouts also a high percentage of our members here do use these type of devices, but I will do my best for you guys. Presentation is everything, especially when showing charts, so some of the charts below may not look as good for you as it would for a PC user, but they should be OK. At the time of writing this article, I may not have written the pages for each disease, but those pages will soon follow in great detail.
Illnesses can be categorized as follows:
Forgive me if I have missed any, but I believe I mentioned most of them. Knowing the above really helps to identify what you are dealing with also on how to treat it.
Type: Parasite
Air Sac Mites (Sternostoma tracheacolum) is a parasite that lives internally within the bird's air sacs or/and with in the airways. Their population can grow rapidly within a matter of hours, depending on certain variables. When the conditions are right, i.e. high humidity, poor immune system, other underlying health issues, these mites will multiply so quickly they will eventually suffocate your bird. They can appear what seems like overnight look very sick when the bird appeared perfectly normal the day before. Most treatments are fast acting, which in itself is a good thing but also a bad thing, and I will explain why.
Imagine your bird suffering with these mites for an extended amount of time, then you decide to treat the bird with one of the powerful medications available on the market. All the mites will usually die at the same time, as the blood carries the poison to the mites. If there were an excess of mites, and they all die at once, they will in effect block the airways, hence suffocating your bird. If their population is low then treatment will usually be highly successful and within a few hours your bird will visually appear a lot better.
In severe cases of Air Sac Mites such as the bird having them for an extended amount of time, then it is recommended that a half dose/strength should be offered at first to reduce the mite numbers. A second treatment should be followed a week later to kill any hatching mite eggs.
Air Sac Mites are a blood sucking parasite, not a disease or an infection, because of this they must be killed via the blood.
Symptoms
Caution! Some of the following symptoms may not actually be Air Sac Mites, but a symptom of something else.
Constant beak wiping, coughing, sneezing, regurgitation, being sick, wheezing, clicking sound, fluffed up appearance, saliva on the breast area or/and around the beak, laboured breathing, nasal discharge, shaking its head, sleeping all the time, inability to fly or perch, sudden death.
Treatment
There are four main products used to kill the Air Sac Mites, and there are 3 different types of ways to administer these drugs. Recommended products are either Moxidectin, Ivermectin, Scatt or S76.
These drugs come as with oral (taken internally), injectable (via syringe) or spot-on (applied directly to the bare skin). Each have an equal effectiveness, but work either slower or faster.
Read more on Wikipedia
Type: Parasite
This is often referred to as canker and can easily be mistaken for other diseases or parasites. Some of the main symptoms resemble Air Sac mites or candidiasis as an example because they all exhibit vomiting, ruffled feathers. Trichomoniasis is something you will almost certainly come across as a breeder, and flocks should be periodically checked for it, then treated as a flock.
It is usually passed through sharing water, food, consumption of other birds stools, feeding their young. It can not survive long in a dry environment such as surfaces, clothing and will usually die after about 45 minutes, although opinions may vary. Birds which are infected with Trichomoniasis will not survive long, depending on their immune system and how long they have had it. Trichomoniasis is a single celled organism which can reproduce at an alarming rate.
It is not particular about what species it infects. From my experience, it is mostly flock type birds, birds crammed into a small environment or birds that share feeders, drinkers who are likely to pick up the organism. Once a bird has been infected with the organism, it is only a matter of hours or days before the entire flock becomes infected.
Symptoms
Caution! Some of the following symptoms may not actually be Trichomoniasis, but a symptom of something else.
Regurgitation, being sick, ruffled feathers, laboured breathing, sneezing, coughing, shaking head, beak wiping, difficulty swallowing food, delayed crop emptying, crop filled with a cheesy yellow type fluid, cheesy yellow type sores within the beak usually at the back by the throat, constant twisting of the neck which is similar as seen prior to when they feed their offspring.
Treatments
There are many products available to choose from now to treat Trichomoniasis in birds, with some being better than others. As mentioned before, if the bird is in an advanced stage of infection, then a weaker dose is always better over a longer period of time. Ronidazole or anything containing it will be the first choice of medication. Other products known as Ronivet-S, Harkanker are also great products to use and both contain Ronidazole as the active ingredient. Treatment is usually between 5 - 7 days, with visual symptoms subsiding within the first 24 hours.
Read more on Wikipedia
Type: Fungal
Candida is a common fungus that lives in the environment, it usually comes from either an infected environment, mouldy food or contaminated water. Damp spots under drinkers or baths, build up of faecal matter or old left over seed are perfect places for it to grow. When ingested, it will usually infect the digestion tract and infected birds usually have a strong odour.
This fungus can be passed directly to the offspring of the infected parent bird during feeding. The fungus is often the cause of Sour Crop and other crop infections. I personally have always called it the 'smelly disease' because you can smell it several feet away, although it is not an official term. If left untreated for too long, it will make its way into other internal organs and even the blood. I lost my favourite hand reared gouldian hen to Candida some years back, I know the pain ðŸ˜
Symptoms
Caution! Some of the following symptoms are similar to Circovirus and Trichomoniasis.
Regurgitation, ruffled feathers, being sick, foul smelling odour, laboured breathing, tail bobbling, unusual neck twisting like something stuck in the crop, delayed crop emptying, poor appetite, over filled crop full of puss or slimy fluid, crop full of food that feels hard, weight loss, depression, head tucked in and sleeping too often.
Visual symptoms can be very similar to Trichomoniasis (canker) and Air Sac Mites because of the regurgitation and being sick, but the giveaway is almost always the smell.
Treatments
The first choice of treatment for Candida is Nystatin or Medistatin which are antifungal drugs. They work really well, but the trick is to get it early. Nystatin usually comes in a liquid form and Medistatin in a powder form, but both are to be taken orally, usually for about a week. Birds can safely be kept on a half dose strength for many months for more severe cases.
Read more on Wikipedia
Type: Virus
Known as 'Young Bird Disease' but really this is not a young bird disease because adults too can be affected. Juveniles which has just been weaned. Right after being weaned only weeks after fledging the nest the chicks can be seen fluffed up, lose weight, begin producing a green diarrhoea then suddenly die. I have seen adult finches with Circovirus symptoms, later developed a cheesy substance around the beak, then later die. At the time, it was mistaken for Trichomoniasis and treated for it, even though nothing was found in a crop sample.
Adult birds infected with the virus rarely exhibit any symptoms but can easily pass the virus on to other birds via saliva, droppings, sharing food or water. Circovirus is highly contagious, especially in a flock, and the only real way to identify it is by having the suspect bird tested. A quote from another site which I found not only to be true but also worth remembering, "If your birds are experiencing a higher level of canker or ‘eye colds’ than normal, or if the problem quickly comes back after treatment, it may be that Circovirus is the underlying cause.". I have seen many chicks only days old die from Circovirus and were easily identified by the dreaded black spot in the lower abdomen area around the gallbladder.
Circovirus will target a particular white blood cell T lymphocyte, whereupon the immune system will become compromised, making the bird more vulnerable to other illnesses.
Symptoms
Caution! Some of the following symptoms are similar to Trichomoniais and Candidiasis.
In young birds, weight loss, green diarrhea, ruffled or fluffed up feathers, yellow cheesy lumps in the insidde of the mouth, sudden death.
In adults, almost no clinical signs can be seen.
Treatments
Baytril for 5 - 7 days or a drug used to treat Tricomoniasis such as Ronidazole for 5 days. Baytril can be either oral or injectable, Ronidazole is usually oral.
Read more on Wikipedia
Type: n/a
More often than not, Hyperkeratosis is mistaken for Scaly Mites (Knemidocoptes mutans) because an untrained eye may not recognize the difference between the two or may never have heard of Hyperkeratosis. The reason it is marked as type: n/a is because it does not fall within any of the categories. It is not really a disease, but rather the thickening of the outer layer of skin, making it look dry and crusty. You can see why it is easily mistaken for scaly mites because the appearance is almost identicle at first glance.
I have never seen Hyperkeratosis in the males only hens, and those hens were also starved of natural direct sunlight. The main cause seems to be down to nutrition and vitamins, or a lack of. A lack of vitamin A seem to go hand in hand with Hyperkeratosis, so it is important to allow the bird to have access to direct sunlight daily, which does not mean through glass because glass blocks the UV rays.
Hyperkeratosis can effect any or all parts of the body and if left untreated for too long may cause bleeding from the skin as the skin cracks. Never keep your birds on an all seed diet, there just simply is not enough nutrition in seeds alone. Even if you supplement with vitamin drops in their drinking water, it is not enough. Hyperkeratosis is a diet-related issue and should be addressed immediately by providing natural daylight, lots of freshly washed veggies, fruits, fresh seeding grasses, plenty of minerals, calcium.
Symptoms
Caution! Some of the following symptoms are similar to Scaly Mites.
Dried hardened skin, balding, scratching, raised hardened skin, calluses, eczema, nasal discharge, sneezing, conjunctivitis, dyspnea, poor feather quality, feather plucking.
Treatments
Improve diet, provide a more vitamin A rich diet, supplement with more iodine. Provide natural direct sunlight daily or install the correct lighting for your birds. You can help the skin by gently rubbing olive oil or baby oil over the infected area, then leave for 30 mins to soak in. After about 30 mins to one hour, gently try to remove any scabbing. If the scabbing is too hard, then you may need to rub more oil into the skin. Some scabbing may not come off the first day and may take several days.
Read more on Wikipedia
Type: Parasite
There are several types of mite and lice that are attracted to birds so, they are listed by their names. The Scaly Mite which is also known as Scaly Face Mite or Scaly Leg Mite burrow deep into the skin, beak, claws seeking blood to feast on. It is an infection called Knemidokoptes which can cause birds to lose limbs or cause permanent damage if not treated quickly. As the mites burrow deep they create raised mounds which often look whitish and appear like scabs, the higher the infestation the more damage will be visible. The mites are not visible to the naked eye, they are far too small to be seen. It is really a bird mange which can be treated with a bit of time and patience. An avian vet will usually take a scraping of the infected area to determine if it is actually scaly mites or something else.
They are known as the burrowing mite because they do not really live on surfaces, they will tunnel into anything they possibly can. Infected birds should be isolated in a newly prepared cage and treated for several months. The mites can survive for a long time in the environment after feasting on a host for as long as 5 months. Once you know you have an infected bird you should throw away all perches from that cage and get new ones, sterilize everything and use a mite spray or powder in the cage, especially if the cage is made from wood. The mites are highly contagious to other birds even if the birds are housed in a neighbouring cage, as these mites can wander a long distance in the dark.
Symptoms
Caution! Some of the following symptoms are similar to Hyperkeratosis.
Constant beak wiping, scratching excessively, excessive preening, scabbing usually on the feet, legs, toes, head or beak. Hardened or/and raised skin, balding.
Treatments
Ivermectin 'spot-on' directly to the skin, usually under the wing, thigh or to the back of the neck, are the best places. Preferably, treat once a week for several weeks, then continue for a further couple of weeks after it has cleared up. Remember to isolate the bird and provide a source of heat, then sterilize the old cage, throwing out the old perches. There are other treatments you can use such as, Moxidectin, Scatt or S76, it depends on what you can get your hands on at the time, Ivermectin seems to work the best for me. If the bird was housed with other birds, I'd treat those too, even if there are no signs of the mites on them.
Read more on Wikipedia
Type: Virus
This is another 'young bird disease' affecting chicks anywhere from 2 weeks to around several months old. It is a deadly pathogen to young cage birds all over the globe. Highly contagious and fast acting, this virus could spread though a flock, killing every chick under the age of a few months in just a matter of days or even hours. The virus infects the internal organs and other body parts simultaneously and has an incubation period of around 2 weeks. Polyomavirus also known 'as Budgerigar Fledgling Disease' and although often kills young fledglings, the older the surviving chicks grow their immune system develop a resistance to it.
I believe Polyomavirus is more common than you are told, I have seen it for myself in my own flocks and I have seen many people on social media reporting dying juveniles which exhibit similar symptoms. The big giveaway is the haemorrhages that appear under the skin, usually around the abdomen, but not exclusive to that area. The abdomen is usually swollen and bruised. Those that make it to adulthood will usually become carriers of the virus, passing it on to other birds housed with them or their own offspring. Older birds that test positive for Polyomavirus should be housed together away from non-infected birds to live out the rest of their lives without being allowed to breed. Although vaccines are available, they are costly and are only a preventative measure, not a cure.
Symptoms
Hemorrhages under the skin, weight loss, anorexia, polyuria, ataxia, swollen or bloated abdomen, tremors, paralysis, dehydration, poor immune system, regurgitation, bruising under the skin, sudden death.
Treatments
As mentioned above, there are vaccines available from your vet, but they are costly and are only really a preventative. There is no definitive cure for Polyomavirus as yet. Quarantine and supportive care is all you can really offer infected birds.
Read more on Wikipedia
Type: Parasite
Also known as intestinal coccidiasis, this is a single celled organism which is a protozoan. It is an intestinal parasite which can multiply in large numbers at an alarming rate. Any species of bird at age are equally affected by the parasite. Coccidiosis is a well documented parasite with countless articles written on the protozoa, so I will not need to go into great detail on it here. The eggs produced by the protozoan can live in the ground for as long as 2 years, so you will understand why a thorough sterilizing program is required once a bird has been identified as carrying the parasite.
It is a parasite that lives in the digestive tract, where it will attach itself to the cell wall of the digestive tract. They will begin producing oocysts which eventually exit with the bird's droppings. Other foraging birds will pick up the oocysts as they peck around in the droppings, ingest the oocysts where the hard shell oocysts will grow to adults and the process begins all over again. The lifespan of the coccidia is only a matter of days, about a week. One single coccidian will do little damage, but in large numbers they can devastate the digestive tract of any bird in a matter of just days. One single coccidian can become thousands in just a matter of days, and this is why they can kill a bird of any size fast.
The usual clinical signs of an infestation is seeing your bird late at night after lights out to be still feasting in the seed dish. Although constantly eating, the bird will usually continue to lose body weight and in later stages blood may be seen in the droppings as the lining of the stomach is being damaged by the coccidia. By the time blood is seen in the droppings or when the protozoa numbers are too many, it becomes too painful to eat or drink. Eating and drinking soon comes to a screeching halt, where the bird will finally sit and starve to death. Treating coccidiosis is very easy, but you need to catch it early before the damage is done, leaving it too late to treat will leave the bird with irreversible internal damage.
Symptoms
Constantly eating even in the dark (early to mid stage), refusing to eat or drink (late stage),weight loss, lethargy, loss of balance, blood in the droppings, severe diarrhoea that can be watery, bloody, or contain greenish mucus, droopy wings, poor plumage, emaciation, depression, pale looking skin, picking up seed then nibbling it and dropping it constantly.
Treatments
The best treatment on the market is Baycox, there are other treatments, brands but Baycox seems to work the best IMO. It is usually given for 48 hours straight as the only source of water, then repeat a week later. I like to do a 3-week course to be sure because I know how persistent coccidiosis really is and treat the whole flock at once while sterilizing the whole aviary.
If you buy in error Baycox for piglets & cattle the bottle does not show the dosage, so I will save you a lot of time and doubt, it will be Baycox 5% and the dilution is 1ml per 1 litre of water. It must be offered for 48 hours straight as the only source of water, then repeat a week later. 😎
Link for more information.
Read more on Wikipedia
Type: Parasite
This is a water bourne parasite which is a single celled protozoan. It lives in water, where it can spread at ease to other birds as they drink or bath from it. Usually an infected bird will drink or bath in the water where it will contaminate the water whereupon the parasite will lay in wait for the next victim/s to use the water. The parasite makes its way to the intestines where it can multiply. It can not be transmitted through the air, it can only infect a bird if taken in orally.
From my own personal observation when I learnt that one of my finches was infected with the parasite, I watched from the start until almost the end where I finally killed off the parasite saving the bird, taking note of everything. I brought home a bird from someone who did not look after her very well, then run some crop & stool samples. The stool samples revealed the parasite's presence to be positive. In just a matter of days I discovered runny droppings also the bird began what I believed to be excessive preening. It was only a matter of a day or two before I observed constant scratching all over. She kept pecking a particular location (top back) then finally began plucking her own feathers. Lethargy, depression and weight loss were observed by day 6 and stool samples showed a very large increase in the numbers of the parasite being expelled. I thought I learnt enough and began treating her with Ronidazole, the itching stopped by the end of the day. Recovery was quick, it only took 2 days for her to appear normal again, minus a bunch of feathers..
I know, I know, it sounds mean, but I knew she'd be OK and if I had left her where she was she would have gone through the whole process until her final end. That was about 6 years ago, I still have her today, and she is one of my best hens. I did also learn that constant yeast infections may be observed while the bird was infected and for a short period after, so keep this in mind in case you encounter Giardia in your flock.
Symptoms
Constant scratching, constant self pecking, self feather plucking, balding, smelly slimey diarrhoea, lethargy, depresson, lameness, lack of appetite, weight loss, vomiting, constant yeast infections, sudden death.
Treatments
Ronidazole for 5 days usually does the trick. Ronivet, Harkanker are other products you can use equally well. The water source will need correcting. Make sure all baths, drinkers, cages are sterilized then make sure there are no damp spots in the cage i.e. leaking drinkers or baths.
Read more on Wikipedia
Type: Bacteria
This bacteria Salmonellosis is usually spread at the feeder, drinker or bath and through bodily fluids. Infected parents feeding chicks can pass the bacteria to their offspring, killing the whole clutch. Even the stools of an infected bird will contain salmonella, which can easily infect other birds. The first initial signs are weakness and lethargy, with the bird appearing fluffed up like a ball. The bird will be easy to pick up with little to no effort at all. You need to catch this pathogen in its early stages to be more successful in treating it.
Many infected birds can carry the pathogen without ever showing any signs of illness, depending on their immunity to it, but can still pass it on to other birds. These birds are known as carriers and those they pass it onto who have weak immune systems will show all the symptoms, then suffer the fatal outcome. Cleanliness is top priority and scrubbing those feeders, drinkers and baths daily will most certainly help to minimize the risk of the pathogen spreading.
Symptoms
Lameness, lethargy, diarrhoea, fluffed up with head tucked in, weakness, yelow plaques inside the mouth, smelly droppings.
Treatments
Tetracyclin or Baytri. Must be treated early if any chance of success.
Read more on Wikipedia
Type: Bacteria
Infected birds may show a variety of symptoms which can make life difficult to identify visually what may be wrong, the best diagnosis is done via stool sample, blood sample to be sure. Nests with yellow stained stools as well as young dying chicks is an indication E. Coli maybe present. In adult birds you may observe ruffled feathers, typical sick bird appearance with yellow diarrhoea. Birds infected with E. Coli will usually have a lowered appetite for food and can sit motionless for long periods of time, just sleeping.
E. Coli can affect internal organs as it spreads throughout the body causing colibacillosis if not caught in time, early detection is always best to ensure a better chance of recovery. The bird may have secondary infections such as sinus issues, problems with its eyes, breathing difficulties. During times of stress or if the bird has a poor immune system, E. Coli will multiply rapidly, making the bird more susceptible to the bacteria. It primarily lives in the gut. It is spread through faecal contamination and this is why in chicken hatcheries they follow a strict hygiene regime to prevent an outbreak of E. Coli.
Symptoms
Yellow diarrhoea, fluffed up with head tucked in, weakness, difficulty breathing, loss of appetite, weight loss, depression, yellow soiled / stained vent, sometimes blood in the droppings can be observed. Nests stained with yellow diarrhoea.
Treatments
Neomycin, Baytril, tetracyclines and sulfa drugs are usually best to treat E. Coli.
Read more on Wikipedia
Type: Fungal
This is a mould that lives in our environment, it is pretty much everywhere. We all breathe the spores throughout our lives and so does the wildlife, but do not suffer any ill effects generally, mostly because it is in small amounts. When the conditions are right the mould can grow exponentially and will release millions of spores into the air which can be breathed in, land on surfaces, food or water. As we all know, mould likes a damp environment to grow so air sacs, lungs or internal organs are ideal places. Mould is a fast-growing fungus which requires fast action when dealing with it.
The fungus can easily be confused with other illnesses because many of the symptoms are compatible with other illnesses. Birds should never be kept in damp environments because the risk of mould is far too high, increasing the chance of aspergillosis. Nearly all birds infected with aspergillosis finally succumb to the disease. From my experience, birds caught in the early stages have a small chance of survival, those in mid to late stages have virtually zero chance of survival. Having said that, on rare occasions, some infected birds can make a full recovery without any medications whatsoever. I think this is one of the worst diseases your birds can get, it is certainly at the top of the list.
Symptoms
Heavy or laboured breathing, tail bobbing, loss of appetite, weight loss.
Diagnosis can sometimes be possible in living birds through microscopic examination of droppings, throat or sinus swab. Diagnosis is usually made during autopsy.
Treatments
itraconazole, change the environment, remove bird from damp / mouldy locations, sterilize all surfaces.
Read more on Wikipedia
Type: Fungal
Also known as Megabacteria or AGY which contradicts itself because it is neither a yeast nor a bacterium in a true sense but rather a fungus. I'm not even sure you can call it a fungus neither, as there was much debate about it, but the boffs in the white suits settled for it being a fungus. I thought it was a valid debate and an interesting one. Some sites say it is a yeast, others say bacteria or a fungus, to be fair I am still not 100% certain myself. The most important thing is knowing how to identify it then deal with it.
Like most diseases, this needs to be detected early before the real damage occurs. Over time, it will cause gastrointestinal disease which can be clearly observed by the droppings, weight loss, blood in the stools and quite often while undigested seeds in the droppings. Mortality rate can vary depending on the species of bird and the type of megbacteria involved. A stool sample observed under a microscope will usually reveal rod shaped bacteria, sometimes you may not see them in the stools, but usually they do show up. Even the presence of one single megabacteria in a stool usually means there are hundreds if not thousands more still within the bird.
Red blood in the stools means new fresh blood (lower digestion tract), black blood means old blood (upper digestion tract). Blood may not always been seen in the droppings but if they are seen then it means the walls of the digestion tract has be compromised by the fungus, treatment should begin right away. I should warn you that symptoms are being easily mistaken for coccidiosis as there are many compatibilities, this is why stools should be observed under a microscope to identify if the fungus is present.
Symptoms
Undigested seed in the stools, blood in the stools, weight loss, unable to eat, regurgitation, weakness, unable to perch, diarrhoea, sitting fluffed up, stained vent, sudden death.
Treatments
Amphotericin B twice daily for 4 weeks, Nystatn full strength for 7 days then half strength for as long as any symptoms still exist. Medistatin can be used if nystatin can not be aquired. Most anti fungal drugs can be used successfully depending on how advanced the megabacteria is.
Read more on Wikipedia
Type: Parasite
I know I could have included Air Sac Mites in this section, but those are internal mites which live inside the bird's airways, lungs and air sacs and chose to list them separately. No matter how clean you keep the environment where you keep your birds, Mites are still likely to find their way in. There are many types of mites and lice ranging from internal mites to external mites, but they all seem to have one thing in common, they all live off the blood which categorizes them as a parasite.
Scaly Face Mites (Knemidokoptes pilae) and Scaly Leg Mites (Knemidocoptes mutans) are the burrowing mite, they burrow deep into the skin in search of a blood supply to feast on. These mites are too small to see with a naked eye, but the damage they cause can be clearly seen. Observing a skin scraping under a microscope, you can see all the holes they have created and the damage they cause. As they burrow into the skin, the skin becomes raised with a crusty surface and will have a whitish appearance. Sometimes blood can be seen around sensitive areas or areas that have been over tunnelled. These mites can eat into the skin, beak, claws also the feathers to a point where the bird can actually lose limbs. They are very easy to treat, but takes longer than the average breeder believes. It is very common for breeders or keepers to mistake hyperkeratosis for scaly mites and identification should be make via skin scraping then viewed under a microscope. These mites will even burrow into wood to lay in wait for a host.
Northern Mite (Ornithonyssus sylviarum) which is known by several different names are a nightmare come true for people who mostly keep chickens, turkeys etc but these mites will be happy to infest any species of bird. They can be seen with a naked eye easily, so when cleaning cages or nesting boxes you should pay special attention to corners or under surfaces where they like to hide. They are usually night feeders or move about when it is dark. Too many mites can turn your bird anaemic as they suck out the blood from the bird while they sleep. By morning when it is light there will usually be no mites in sight, but you may find spots of blood on the perch where the bird was perched.
Feather lice or mites come in many different shapes and colours, but all are equally destructive to the host bird. Visible to the naked eye but better seen with a magnifying glass, these little critters can destroy a beautiful plumage in no time at all. They usually eat the feathers from the shaft of the feather, leaving holes or large gaps in the feather. A heavy infestation of the mites can render the bird flightless as they destroy the feathers. Infected birds can usually be seen constantly itching and scratching like a cat loaded with fleas.
Symptoms
Caution! Some of the following symptoms are similar to Hyperkeratosis.
Excessive scratching, Itching, excessive preening, crusty/flaky or hard skin, reddening of the skin, feather loss, balding, swelling of the legs/feet/toes, unable to settle.
Treatments
Avian Liquidator, injectable wormer (Doramectin), good sanitation.
Read more on Wikipedia
Type: Bacteria
Chlamydia psittaci is the actual name which can effect not only your pet birds but also humans.
There re many variants of chlamydia psittaci and many sub variants, it is known as Chlamydia or Chlamydiosis to most people but in birds it is known as Ornithosis. Different variants effect different types of birds and in different ways, which can make it hard to identify without samples being tested.
The way it infects is usually through air bourne dust that is breathed in. Chlamydia psittaci can live in the environment for several weeks and a slight gust of wind can easily make it air bourne where it becomes a hazard. Birds can also shed the bacteria through feather dust and droppings, so good hygiene is important. It is hard to diagnose but some clinical signs are easily confused with other diseases.
Humans who are often in close proximity to their pet birds should take extra precautions as infected dust can also harm us too. Pigeon-fanciers who spend time cleaning out their lofts unprotected over a long time usually end up being victims of Chlamydia, it is called B.F.L which means Bird Fanciers Lung. The symptoms in humans are shortness of breath, tiredness, weight loss, headaches and even blindness, pneumonia like symptoms. Long term exposure can be permanent, resulting in COPD and even death.
Symptoms
Caution! Some of the following symptoms are similar to Coccidiosis, Aspergillosis, Air Sac Mites.
Bright green urates, shortness of breath, fluffed up, wet soiled vent, excessive sleeping, loss of appetite, weakness, depression sudden death.
Treatments
Tetracycline type drugs. Please note, the drugs will not work when the Chlamydia is dormant, it must growing or multiplying for the drugs to work properly. Treatment should last for around 6 weeks.
Read more on Wikipedia
Type: Bacteria
Mycoplasma is a bacterium that causes mycoplasmosis, this type of bacteria has no cell wall so when using antibiotics you need to use an antibiotic that does not target the cell wall, or it will be useless. The point of entry is usually the respiratory and eyes, but more specifically the membrane that protects the eye & ciliated pseudostratified columnar epithelium found lining most of the respiratory tract. The bacterium can be passed to the eggs from infected parents, infected chicks that hatch usually become carriers for life.
In the environment, the bacterium can be killed easily with disinfectants but, once in a host, it is almost impossible to eliminate. Infected birds that survive will become carries even if they show no symptoms. There are some vaccines, but they are not a cure nor do they prevent infection, but just minimize the clinical symptoms.
Symptoms
Coughing, tracheal rales, facial edema (Facial swelling is the buildup of fluid in the tissues of the face), nasal discharge, conjunctivitis, lameness, eggs that repeatedly DIS (Dead In Shell).
Treatments
Tilmicosin ,Tiamulin, Tylosin, (These antibiotics only help to reduce the amount of bacteria in the birds and will not totally eliminate them all). There is no 100% cure, but you can keep the bacteria population down, infected birds will be carriers for the rest of their lives.
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Type: n/a
It is difficult to categorize Egg Binding as a yeast infection, bacteria, fungal infection etc because it could be one of them, some of them, all of them or none of them. Egg Binding is a term used when a hen is unable to pass an egg, but it is the cause which should be categorized, not the Egg Binding itself. Obviously only hens can become egg bound because males can not lay eggs, so particular attention need to be given to all of your hens especially prior and during breeding season. Off the top of my head I can think of many reasons for Egg Binding such as genetic, cancer, tumour, bacterial infection, yeast infection, starvation, dehydration, trauma, protozoan, small vent, lack of calcium...
Egg Binging is quite common in cage birds but not as common in the wild where wild birds have access to minerals, food and natural medicines in abundance. There is a whole page written on Egg Binding if you want to read more in detail. Egg Binding can sometimes happen when the hen is not in condition to breed and the male mates with her before her body is ready. You may observe your Egg Bound hen sitting horizontal on a perch or sat on the floor with her tail pointing downwards. You may observe laboured breathing or see her trying to push the egg out. In severe cases you may find your hen laying on her side with eyes closed with the appearance of her dying, she will need immediate help if this is observed.
Symptoms
Fluffed up looking sick, sitting in a horizontal position, tail bobbing, tail twisting while pushing down, sleeping with head tucked in, not eating & drinking, straining to lay an egg, paralysis of one or both legs, vomiting, swollen abdomen, unable to perch, abdominal straining.
Treatments
To help an Egg Bound hen, first you need to move her to a hospital cage by herself. Provide some tissue papers for her to rest on, remove all perches and provide a source of heat. Food, water will not be required right away as she will be in no mood to eat or drink. Try to handle her as little as possible. I always keep a bottle of Zolcal-D ready for Egg Bound hens, it requires one single drop to the beak, but make sure she swallows it. Never force anything into her beak. Sitting her in a warm 2 cm deep bath for 10 minutes can help, but keep her in your hand while placing her in there. You can gently massage the abdomen area, taking care not to damage the egg inside. If she tries to bite you then you should stop right away as it means you are hurting her.
If you do not have Zolcal-D then you can use a single drop of liquid calcium directly to the beak, then a single drop of tepid water to help with hydration. After the egg has passed, provide food and water, but keep her alone for about one extra hour before placing her back in her cage when she appears better.
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Type: Parasite
There are many types of parasitic worm which can infest your birds. Although aviary birds are usually more susceptible to parasitic worms (because of the environment they live in) but also caged birds too can pick them up via contaminated food, droppings or water. I have listed some of the typical parasitic worms common in birds on the Pests page. It is usually the parasitic worm eggs that are ingested orally where they develop into adult worms, then begin to lay more eggs within the bird. As the eggs hatch out, they too begin to grow into adults, where they themselves begin to lay eggs. Some of the eggs are passed through the stools, where other birds